Hello everyone.

Just joined, after 4 or 5 years of not using GTR2 at all. Its nice to be back on the racetrack.

When looking both on and off line earlier, its become apparent that all my setups seem to no longer work. Mostly thats gearing (where the ratios max out to about 50mph in 6th gear).

I tried a few laps last night, for example at Sebring. I loaded up a Corvette setup from the online folder, but it was garbage (and topped out at about 100mph).

So, with that in mind, i wondered if anyone had, or could share, a setup pack for some (or indeed all) of the main cars? Doesnt necessarily need to be track specific!

Grateful for any input!

Thanks
Steve

Optimum operating temperatures in GTR

Tyres: In GTR there are different tyre manufacturers, so also different operating temperatures!
They should be between 90°C and 100°C

Engine:
Nominally 90.0 -100.0°C
Optimal 100.0°C
Overheating from 103.0°C

Brake system:
Nominal 300° to 600°C
Optimal 400°C

Splitter - Rear wing

The wing setting determines the aerodynamic downforce and thus also the top speed. The rear wing has more influence on top speed than the front wing, which is mainly responsible for the aerodynamic balance of the car.
- Minimum wing with best possible top speed and acceleration, but pay attention to cornering speeds.
- The wing setting depends on the driver's preferences.
- The rear wing determines the downforce, the front wing the balance.

Fuel

Ground clearance: More fuel means more weight and therefore higher forces on the suspensions, test the ground clearance.
More weight on the rear axle improves the handling towards controllability.
Principles:
- Fill up as much as you need.
- Pay attention to tyre wear during the race (pit strategy).

Differential

It controls the distribution of forces between the left and right rear wheels. You can connect these two wheels rigidly (100%) or set them so that if one wheel loses traction (e.g. on grass), it is braked a bit to get full traction again. The 100% setting creates higher temperatures at the rear wheels, because when both wheels go through a curve, the outer wheel has to cover a longer distance than the inner one. Thus, with the setting locked (100%), you have a wheel that turns too fast in relation to its travel (friction). You can do the general setting, but you can also set the differentials for braking and acceleration separately, so you have the possibility to use the full potential of this technique. A 0% setting has all the advantages in acceleration (full throttle), but huge disadvantages in braking. 100% likes zero-throttle sections (braking), but hates accelerating because you often have spinning wheels. The main setting for me is usually the average of braking and accelerating.
The differential preload indicates at what level of event (the point at which the differential kicks in) the differential starts to work. At low values it starts later (at zero not at all), at high it starts earlier.
Principles:
Differential lock at 0
- Zero-throttle oversteer = HIGH
- With-throttle oversteer = ZERO
Differential lock at 100%
- Zero-throttle oversteer = ZERO
- With-throttle oversteer = HIGH
You do not set whether you want to oversteer or understeer, but when and how much! Separate settings for acceleration and braking:
- High values for braking.
- Low values for acceleration.

Caster

Adjusts the degree to which the tyres lean forward or backward (in the direction of travel) relative to the axle. Caster is responsible for directional stability.
Principles:
- Positive caster: good directional stability, but high steering effort required.
- Negative caster: Less steering force, but more nervous on straights.

Brakes

The braking force cannot be high enough and therefore you should always choose the 100% setting, with a little feeling for the brake this is no problem. Only in the rain should you go down minimally to avoid overturning wheels. In the game you have to pay a little attention to your brake temperature, because with optimal temperature the things bite unbelievably (only little pedal use), but if you come straight out of the box, you can and must really push the pedal.
Principles:
- 400°C is the optimum temperature with the best braking power.

Springs

The springs create a basic ground clearance (soft springs - need more ground clearance) and an initial balance in the car (understeer). Springs store energy by absorbing or deflecting force. In GTR, springs are a good way to add or remove understeer or oversteer, so you can adjust your car to suit the track and your driving style.
Principles:
- soft spring - more grip
- hard spring - quick reaction when turning etc.
- hard spring in front - good reaction, lower ground clearance possible
- soft spring at the rear - good traction
- Always adjust basic balance with springs (compromise), not too hard at front or too soft at rear
- Note ground clearance: soft spring, more ground clearance required

Ground clearance and limiter

The suspension travel limiter limits the suspension travel, so soft springs with low ground clearance can be used. But be careful too high limiters can cause problems on bumps, as the car can't swallow all the bump height and thus tends to bounce and hop. But they are a good remedy if, for example, you only touch down slightly on a wave, but the setup is otherwise very good, then you simply increase the limiters a little and the car no longer touches down at this point.
Principles:
- As low as possible.
- A car that touches down breaks down, suddenly loses traction and sparks.
- Use the limiter only for slight corrections.

Damper

Damper adjustment is the biggest challenge. A damper controls the rate at which the spring is loaded/unloaded (sprung in/sprung out) and it is 4-way adjustable.
Adjustment options:
Fast shock controls spring-in speed over bumps etc.
Fast recoil controls deflection speed over bumps etc.
Slow shock controls deflection speed over chassis pitch and roll.
Slow recoil controls deflection speed with chassis pitch and roll.

While the springs determine how far the vehicle tilts, the dampers determine the speed at which it tilts.
They are used to fine tune the handling. A high value indicates a slow damper, a low value indicates a fast damper, i.e. a fast damper allows high spring in or spring out speeds.

Principles:
- Front damper as low (soft) as possible for best front grip.
- Rear damper as high (hard) as possible for good high speed cornering stability
- slow setting controls bounce weight (chassis pitch and roll) when weight is shifted
- fast setting controls unsprung weight (tyres, wheels, brakes) over bumps
- soft dampers good grip
- hard dampers good high-speed cornering stability

- Fast bump: soft setting Car does not bump as much, but it becomes more sluggish
- slow bump: soft setting car becomes more docile, but again more sluggish
- with soft springs, dampers that are too hard cause the spring not to be fully loaded and they are therefore neutralised.

- the settings for shock and rebound should not be too far apart, as then the spring is loaded very slowly, for example, but can be very fast when unloaded, which can make the car undriveable.
- The fast recoil damping should always be 1-3 parts higher than the shock damping.
- The harder the springs, the harder the recoil damping should be.